Cake to Summit: Matching Keswick's Fells to the Right Bake
Photo: Jeff Gogarty , CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
There's a particular hunger that only turns up on a fell. It arrives somewhere between the summit and the car park, and it laughs at the idea of a sad sandwich. What it wants is cake — but not just any cake. The wrong bake at the top of Catbells is a genuine disappointment; the right one is the whole point of the day.
So we've spent a thoroughly unscientific season testing bakes against hills, and we've come out of it with a scoring system, a shortlist, and some fairly immovable opinions about cling film.
The scoring system, briefly
Every pairing gets marked out of ten on four things:
- Pocketability — does it survive a rucksack, a waterproof and a careless sit-down?
- Crumb risk — how much of it ends up in the map pocket, or on the dog?
- Sugar-to-effort — how hard was the hill, and how much reward does that honestly justify?
- View-to-bite — the quality of the scenery at the moment of the first mouthful. A bench with a view scores considerably higher than a car park.
Anything over 32 out of 40 is a walk worth rearranging your week for.
Catbells: the show-off
Catbells is the fell everyone does, and it earns it — short, sharp, and with a ridge that makes you feel far more heroic than 451 metres ought to allow. It's also busy, so the summit isn't the place for a delicate cream slice and a great deal of fuss.
Go sturdy. A slab of millionaire's shortbread, a dense square of parkin, or a thick-cut flapjack with a proper layer of jam through the middle. Pocketability 9, crumb risk 2, sugar-to-effort a solid 8 — that last pull up the nose of the hill deserves treacle and butter in equal measure. Total: 34.
Latrigg: the gentle one
Latrigg is the walk you take when you've had a late breakfast and you'd like to be back in town for lunch. There's a bench at the top, a view over the whole of Keswick, and a path gentle enough that nobody needs to pretend they're in training.
This is a Victoria sponge walk. A lemon drizzle slice. A scone with the butter in one of those little pots. A flask of tea that's still hot because you only left the car twenty-five minutes ago. Score: 34/40, with bonus marks for sitting down.
Walla Crag: the amble with ambitions
Walla Crag sneaks up on you. You start through Great Wood with the lake glinting below and the birds making an absolute racket, and then suddenly you're on the edge of something dramatic with the town laid out like a model village.
It's a sharing walk. Bring the gingerbread loaf, a bag of fudge, something to break into pieces and hand round while someone takes the same photograph of Derwentwater for the fourth time. Crumb risk climbs to 5 or 6, but the view-to-bite is close to perfect. Total: 33.
Castlehead and Friar's Crag: the ten-minute rewards
Not every outing needs to be an expedition. Castlehead is a short, cheeky pull up through the trees with a view that has no business being that good for the effort. Friar's Crag is barely a walk at all — a level stroll and a rock, and one of the best-known viewpoints in the Lakes.
For these, go small and neat: a couple of truffles, a piece of tablet, a ginger biscuit. Pocketability 10, crumb risk 1, sugar-to-effort a frankly unearned 10, because you've done almost nothing and deserve everything.
Blencathra: the serious one
If you're going up Blencathra — Sharp Edge or otherwise — this stops being a picnic and starts being a day out with consequences. Take something oat-heavy and indestructible. Flapjack, ideally the sort that weighs the same as a small book. Nothing with cream, nothing with soft icing, nothing you'd be upset to find flattened under a water bottle.
Pocketability 10, crumb risk 1, sugar-to-effort 7. The real reward comes later, and it usually arrives in the form of a sit-down and a pot of tea.
The seasons change the answer
Winter wants dark things: parkin, gingerbread, treacle, a loaf that's better on day two. Cold air makes sugar taste sweeter, and something spiced from a tin on a windy summit is worth more than any fancy patisserie in a warm room.
Summer is the opposite problem. Chocolate melts, butter softens, and fudge turns into a rumour in a paper bag. Shortbread, ginger biscuits and anything with structural integrity wins from June to September.
Packing rules we won't apologise for
Take a tin, not a bag, if the cake is soft. Wrap slices individually — cling film is grim but it works. Keep everything out of the top pocket, where a water bottle will inevitably find it. And don't, under any circumstances, store the cake next to the dog's biscuits. We've learned the hard way.
The verdict
Catbells and millionaire's shortbread. Latrigg and lemon drizzle, on a bench, with a flask. Walla Crag and a gingerbread loaf passed round four pairs of hands. Castlehead and a small bag of fudge, eaten far too quickly, looking out over the town you're about to walk back into.
Come and see us before you set off. We'll help you match the bake to the fell — and we'll wrap it properly.